Recharge your batteries in Union, Washington
This week’s hidden Gem is Union, Washington on the Hood Canal
This week’s hidden gem is the small town of Union Washington, on the southern tip of the Hood Canal less than 40 minutes from Olympia. Hood Canal is one of the only fjord-like bays in North America, extending like a fish hook from the Puget Sound near Port Gamble down to Union, and then hooking back to Belfair. There are no cities or even incorporated towns on the Hood Canal, making this a peaceful place to relax. The slower rural pace, plus the six state parks, boat launches, and trails along the Hood Canal make it a perfect spot to recharge your batteries. Hike, boat, kayak, enjoy good food and music and watch the stars at night. If you like to play in the water, the Hood canal is warmer than the Puget Sound or Pacific beaches (if not warm by non-Washingtonian standards) with water temperatures getting into the 70s F in August, compared to the low 60s in the Puget Sound.
Hood canal. Photo credit Virginia Hill of the Over the Hill Sisters blog.
This area is the indigenous territory of the Skokomish and Squaxin peoples, with the Skokomish Reservation just east of Union at the southern edge. The Union area has hosted Europeans since fur traders built a block house in the 1830s. Modern day Union has fewer than 1,000 people, but along the water front you will find a marina and boat launch, restaurants and a resort.
Union Washington, Circa 1910. Photo from Explore Hood Canal.
The two state parks near Union, Potlatch and Twanoh, are perfect spots to enjoy both the forest and the sea. Both of these parks have ocean access to the Hood Canal on one side of the highway and an upland area with a campground and trails on the other. Potlatch offers both sandy and gravel beaches, while the beach at Twanoh is gravel (don’t forget your surf shoes), but has a roped off swimming area. If you want to go boating, Twanoh has a boat launch, seven moorage buoys, 200’ of moorage at the dock and a marine pumpout station. Potlatch does not have a launch, but does offer off-shore moorage. Both parks are part of the Cascadia and Kitsap Peninsula Water trails, with waterfront campsites designated for people arriving by kayak or other human powered watercraft. If you like to hike, there is a 2.6-mile trail system in Twanoh State Park that loops up along a small creek through the forested hillside, with a picnic shelter and bathroom where you can take a break. If you don’t want to walk all the way to the top of the park, there is a cross trail that makes a shorter loop. The eastern side of the trail has a natural surface with steep sections, the western side of the loop is more gentle and wider with a gravel surface.
In addition to the state parks, there are also public boat launches next to the Union Marina and at The Skokomish Tribe’s Skokomish Park at Potlatch in the Union area, as well as many other boat launches and beach access along both sides of the canal. You can find all of the boat launches at beach access on the Northwest Portal outdoors map.
A trip to Union is not just about enjoying nature, you can find great food and live music in the area. One of my favorite places to stop is Hood Canalé, where you can find wood fire pizzas with local and innovative flair, pasta, live music + open mike, a wine shop, local beers on tap and outdoor seating. Other dining options are the Hook & Fork, Union City Market, Union Country Store and 2 Margaritas Restaurant near the Union Marina, and the restaurant at the Alderbrook Resort & Spa just east of Union, where you can experience their woodland to waterfront menu with fresh regional ingredients, while enjoying views out across the canal.
Lodging options in this area range from camping and cabins to resorts and AirBnB homes. Hood Canalé has two cottages available for rent that are next to the restaurant, offering an easy stroll after an evening of music, drinks and good food. Alderbrook Resort offers both luxury rooms and cabins, and guests can enjoy private hiking trails, an indoor pool and hot tub, fitness center, a beach on the water, a spa and even a golf course. The Skokomish Tribe has cabins, motel rooms and RV spots at the Waterfront at Potlatch just up the coast from Union and Robin Village Resort offers 16 unique cottages. There are also many Air B&Bs along the canal. When I visited Union, I stayed in the Hood Canal Chalet, a three-level home with spectacular views is perfect for a family, with a casual family room vibe in the bottom level, a large open plan kitchen dining and living area on the main level and a master suite upstairs. The house is across the road from the canal with multiple decks where you can enjoy the view, and the property has a waterfront platform right on the canal.
If you are heading to Union in the quiet season (fall to spring), make sure to check for hours and to see what is open. Many of the businesses close for the season or are only open on weekends, while others, like Alderbrook, are open year-round.
Find these great destinations and more places on the canal with Northwest Portal’s Outdoor NW map.